Ever stop to think about all the variables that factor into creating a distinct, complex, clean and consistent regional blend? It is mind boggling if you think about terroir to processing and everything in between. And what about the human factor from farm management all the way through to brewing. But if you think about it, the backbone of Colombian offerings are regional blends cultivated in many parts on small family owned farms. It’s hard to pinpoint why some regional blends rise to the top each year but it sure is exciting when they do. This traceable community blend with a vibrant regional profile comes from an association of 22 producers with small farms in the municipality of Rovira within the department of Tolima. Each producer has their own micro-mill where they carefully harvest cherries, depulp, ferment, wash and gently dry the parchment on raised beds. Imagine the harmony between these producers in farm management and post-harvest practices to achieve a clean and consistent blend. But also just enough differences from farm to farm to create a rich complexity of flavors. And then imaging all the crucial logistical demands for things like warehousing and milling coffee for export before this coffee reached the international market.

Bedhatu Jibicho is like family here at Royal and her family’s journey in coffee is emblematic of the recent changes in the Ethiopian export rules, which have opened new opportunities to develop relationships with vertically integrated suppliers. Roba and Family Coffee, established by Bedhatu’s sons, is one example of a newly formed export company now directly offering lots from the Gedeb district including their mother’s coffee. While the Roba family has expanded their reach to support other producers, we are always pleased to have an offering from Bedhatu’s 84-acre farm, which she has personally managed for over 50 years without the use of chemical inputs. Larger than most farms in the area, Bedhatu employees 20 year-round workers and another 130 seasonal workers for the harvest who are primarily women. For this natural processed coffee, cherries are carefully hand sorted and floated to separate out less dense and damaged coffee, and then placed on raised beds where it is hand sorted again and dried over a period of 20 days. The cherries are often covered during the afternoons to prevent harsh drying in the intense sun. As a family owned business, emphasis on social impact in the communities where they source coffee is taking shape. The Roba family has invested in more localized cherry collection sites to reduce the transportation cost for other producers. They have also contributed to road construction projects that make travel a bit easier for everyone. Once again, Bedhatu Jibicho’s coffee has come through with exceptional execution. Ripe blackberries burst onto the palate after unmistakable lavender and ripe raspberry aromas rise from the grounds. The coffee is aromatic and effervescent, Meyer lemon and apricot are highlighted on the top end, cantaloupe and purple grape round out the finish, and lingering florality reminds you of the aromatics well after the cup is finished. It’s an incredible experience, made all the more enjoyable by virtue of the longstanding relationship with the Roba family.